Ladies outerwear winter
by Susanne Galliker, Gerliswilstr. 21, CH-6021 Emmenbruecke
Tel. 0041 / 41 / 260 38 60, Fax 0041 / 41 / 267 92 30
- Need for greater individuality
- Sophisticated colour concept
- Matt, glazed or natural sheen w. glittering effects
- Natural looks and back to basics
- Innovative surfaces
- Lightweights with handle
The desire and demand for greater
individuality will accompany us in this millennium, ending the uniformity which
influenced past seasons. New elements will be found in sophisticated details such as subtle yarn effects, constructions and designs or are revealed in the shape of subtle accessories. These also
include a desire for increased femininity and decoration, avoiding anything obvious and
A versatile and sophisticated colour concept
is sub- ordinate to qualities. The focus is on soft, blurry-looking, foggy, intermediate shades such as versions of grey and blue. Lively, slightly broken shades, sophisticated dark tones and light,
cool, almost transparent tinted faux-blancs.
To meet the need for greater naturalness,
fabrics are matt or have a glaze through to a natural sheen. To provide a luxurious look
and for effects yarns, the focus is on a sheen that is silky and mother-of-pearl,
iridescent + restrained metallic and cool with the look of titanium.
Natural looks and fabrics with a basic look
have an important role, e.g. in PONTELLA and PONTELLA MICRO.
They are influenced by work wear and leisure time sports such as angling or hiking. This
includes everything comfortable, cozy and warming, flannel, attractive polar fleece,
reversible composite knit fabrics which underpin the trend toward voluminous lightweight
The seasons fashion statement is
innovative surfaces. They are never boring or dull, but are lively, structured and imaginative,
even if only at second glance. Help is provided by effect yarns such as mouliné,
chiné and bouclé, the interplay of different yarn strengths, sophisticated
constructions, e.g. double cloth and finishes. Innovative surfaces = SETILA WEAR.
Qualities remain lightweight even for optically
voluminous, puffy or looks with a heavier appearance. Silky qualities, such as SETILA
and SETILA MICRO have more handle with a somewhat heavier drape. Finishes
that support a warming, comfortable, cozy feel such as raising, emerizing, felting,
washing, which give the fabrics more volume and take into account the need for
DESIGN INSPIRATIONS FOR WEAVING,
KNITWEAR, PRINTS, FINISHES AND COATINGS
The design inspirations are
varied and versatile. Individuality and imagination play a major role. Clever print
backgrounds with sophistication, e.g. with cool metallic, mother- of-pearl, fringe or
ribbon effect give the designs a third dimension. Modern print backgrounds are: chiné and
mouliné, Jacquard, matelassé, découpé, but also artisan-style looks such as irregular
wrinkle effects, chiffon, tulle, lace variations, embroidery, flannel, loden and
non-woven. Up-to-the minute looks include partial prints, borders, composés and patchwork
for use in all areas.
Everything with a delicate touch, misty, blurred, smeared through to cotton-woolly,
fluffy and powdery. Bright cloud impressions, hints of flowers from mini to huge, also
smeared and dissolved, romantic mini flower bouquets, toile de Jouy.
Luxurious and artistic
Sophisticated and elegant, never overdone. Jacquard, frequently as piece-dyed or
bicolor, generous flower motifs and tendrils, arabesques, powerful over dimensioned
taffeta checks and lozenge shapes.
Magical, mystical, spiritual
As if from another world, metropolis, surrealism, trompe lil, galaxies,
planets, stars, cool and icy, virtual effects, kaleidoscope. Anatomical influences viewed
under a microscope; blood corpuscles, saliva, particles of skin, muscle and vein bundles,
for current prints and structures.
Natural, archaic, primitive
Natural impulses, irregularly structured designs, speckled like birds eggs, wood
grain, bark, lichen, moss, leaves, roots, effects of corrosion, crinkle, wrinkle and
crease ideas, birds-eye view of landscapes.
Nordic and African influences set the tone, mingled, modified and alienated in their
colorfulness. Cross-stitch and naive cut-out motifs, simple patchworks, borders, ribbon
motifs, ornaments, positioned motifs influenced by Moroccan and Swedish blanket and
carpets, traditional, graphic, linear, geometric motifs and figurative, from Lapland,
Mongolia and Africa, all combined into unusual designs.
The designs, dots, wealth of checks, small of huge, from shirt, block checks through
to lumberjack checks smeared and dissolved. Interrupted versions of stripes,
positive/negative effects, three-dimensional micro designs, faux-unis, mouliné and chiné
looks, subtle iridescent looks.
Urban, practical, everyday
Colours: Light and dark neutrals with
the emphasis on cool grey and blue variations, marble, silver, asphalt, crystal, ice-blue,
ink, warm shades, beige and powder. Mainly monochrome with carefully-measured effect
colours, brass, copper
Fabrics: Matt or glazed, light and
supple, felt and loden variations, also with transparent coatings and embroidered, flannel
with mini designs, jersey partially raised, double-faced cloth, washed poplin, twill,
Designs: Many faux-unis, mouliné,
melangé and vigoureux effects, pepper-and-salt, pointillé and tweed effects, speckled
like birds eggs three dimensional micro designs, positive/negative effects,
interrupted and dissolved stripes, tie designs dots, linear designs.
Protective, sporty and technical,
Colours: Pure white, surrounded mainly
by cold, neutral, alabaster, frost, putty, sophisticated intermediate shades, cassis,
storm, cactus, camouflage, ashes, sepia and lively colours, gold, regimental colours,
uniform, chlorophyll. For reversible, outer and inner sides in different colours,
light/dark and tone-in-tone. Note versions of green.
Fabrics: Matt and the glaze of
titanium. Protection from cold and damp, a lot of napped, fulled, matt coatings, toile,
taffeta, restrained iridescent, felt and loden looks, also partially raised and printed,
double fabric, matelassé, composite knit fabrics, reversible looks, finely laminated
fabrics, e.g. iridescent taffeta, bicolor coated/polar fleece. Gently aged and washed
fabrics, subtly crushed and woolly crushed looks, sporty velvet, cord. Oxidized, cool,
metallic coatings, restrained embossing, embroidery.
Designs: Nature provides the impulses
for irregular structures, speckled like birds eggs, wood grain, bark, lichen, moss,
roots, effects of corrosion, crinkle, wrinkle and crease looks, block and lumberjack
checks, ethnic designs, Nordic and African inspirations, mingled, modified and alienated,
naive cut-outs, simple patchwork, cool, icy and virtual effects. Influences from anatomy,
e.g. for embossing.
BIEN DANS SA PEAU
Comfortable, cozy, supple,
Colours: Mid-range, soft, foggy
colours, beige, powder, maquillage, ice-blue, duck, moss, silver and powerful such as
brass, copper, ruby, lapis lazuli, fern. The focus is on feminine make-up shades and warm
autumn foliage versions.
Fabrics: Glaze and silky sheen. Crêpe
and crêpe-satin with heavier drape and less dry, matt satin, piece-dyed Jacquard, natté,
airily pierced through knit and weave looks, clinging double jersey, subtly
bicolor fleece, mossy and bouclé looks, matelassé with volume, often crushed and napped, woolly
lace and embroidery.
Designs: Dissolved, blurred looks,
small shirt ad generous blanket plaids, indistinct versions of checks, woolly, fluffy,
powdery faux-unis, cloud impressions, romantic mini flower bouquets as Jacquard or print,
hints of flowers and blossoms smeared and in small repeats, toile de Jouy, naive cut-out,
leaf and cross-stitch motifs, simple patchworks.
CLAIR DE LUNE
Unreal, mystical, cosmic.
Colours: Light, almost transparent
faux-blancs, pearl, marble, oyster, crystal or dark, sophisticated, morbid shades,
asphalt, garnet, ink, myrtle and luxurious such as lapis lazuli, peacock, ruby, copper,
brass. Low-contrast harmonies. Pearl, iridescent and matt, cool, metallic sheen for
effects and coatings.
Fabrics: Taffeta, also with restrained
iridescence, flowing satin and duchesse, chiffon, tulle, net looks, moiré, weft rep,
double crêpe not too dry, also with construction effects and mini pierced-through
effects, large repeats in Jacquards and piece-dyed matelassé, cloqué, lace, embroidery,
Designs: As if from another world,
metropolis, surrealism, trompe lil, kaleidoscope, galaxies, planets, stars,
generous flower motifs and tendrils, over-dimensioned taffeta checks and lozenges, toile
If you are interested in the fashion trend work
please contact Susanne Galliker on the above address.